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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.